Fashion designer Anamika Khanna’s latest collection pays homage to Odisha’s Bonda tribe
"I want to wear what you are wearing,” is a line fashion designer Anamika Khanna gets to hear quite a lot from her clients. This time, however, it came from a friend and one of Khanna’s sources of inspiration—Mira Rajput Kapoor. As she launched a new spring-summer line under her ready-to-wear label, AK-OK, Kapoor couldn’t take her eyes off Khanna’s crisp white-collared shirt, which she paired with hippie-chic denim pants. This is one of the many pieces Kapoor took back home the night of the launch. What made the outfit special was the way Khanna captured the sartorial essence of Odisha’s Bonda tribe—its colours, motifs, and embroideries—integrating their distinct artistry into modern everyday clothing.
The collection was serendipitously conceived; the idea first struck over a leisurely cup of afternoon tea with a close friend, and soon snow-balled into an impulse to translate her thoughts onto paper. As her friend passionately narrated her adventurous journey through Odisha’s heartland on a bike, Khanna found herself absorbed in the stories of the untamed landscape and its people, who wore vibrant, self-woven jute clothes. Using this as the reference point, combined with her imagination, Khanna built a body of garments—jackets, slouchy pants, drapes and kaftans—predominantly in denim, with quintessential tribal motifs, in a palette comprising mostly whites, ivories and blacks.
While each garment carries a distinct Bonda imprint, the designer wanted them to look chic, wearable and, most importantly, desirable. “India has a host of indigenous tribes, each with their unique cultural narrative. The Bonda tribe stands out for its dextrous craftsmanship. Their locally woven fabrics, adorned with intricate beadwork and neon hues, reflect the strength of their traditions. The thick threadwork on their clothes is breathtaking, and I’ve incorporated some of it into my new body of work,” says Khanna.
The cuts and styles are simple. The designer took everyday essentials such as a pair of jeans, and turned them into statement pieces by adding design accents. “I had my fair share of doubts and ‘stuck moments’. I was trying to bring two completely different worlds together. Was it even possible? I remember asking myself. The final result, of course, surprised me and reinforced my faith in being outlandish,” says the designer.
On the rare occasion when she gets the time to relax, she enjoys painting. There was a time when Khanna wanted to be a dancer, but life took her in another direction. Not having any formal training in fashion, her road to success was a bumpy one. “Finding my voice demanded considerable effort during the initial years of my career. Amid the demanding middle phase, there was a constant quest for innovation and staying relevant in an environment of the sudden burgeoning of young talent. When I ventured onto international shores, I found myself challenged all over again, given the constant learning and relearning,” she says. That said, Khanna is thankful for every step taken along this journey, recognising that each mile has culminated in the fulfilling destination she now stands at.
Availability: Anamikakhanna.com